FILM NOIR AS A RUNWAY REFERENCE

Photo: Courtesy of Christian Siriano

In the 1940s and 1950s, film noir began taking over cinema. The popular film style, characterized by fantastical narratives, crime dramas, and a particularly dark, shadowy visual aesthetic with high-contrast black-and-white cinematography, stood apart from many of the black-and-white pictures of the time. While black and white was the standard for film in the ’40s and ’50s, today, some would probably just describe the color palette as minimalist.

At New York Fashion Week, many designers seemed to draw inspiration from film noir to create their color palettes and designs for the season. Logically, designers often turn to more minimalist palettes during times of economic downturn in the United States. Currently, the U.S. has more people searching for jobs than there are postings, and luxury brands are experiencing a downturn. The last time the U.S. faced a severe economic slump—during the Great Recession of 2007—runways became far more subdued, with black dominating the collections.

This time around, designers are finding more inventive ways to use black and white, while also taking a quiet luxury approach. The quiet luxury aesthetic has long existed as a fashion subculture, but following the popularity of the Max series Succession, it has surged in mainstream fashion. The aesthetic prioritizes the absence of logos and instead emphasizes craftsmanship, making pieces suitable for everyday wear.

At Calvin Klein’s Spring 2026 runway show, elements of quiet luxury, film noir, and the brand’s underwear all intersected. Black and white dominated the palette, with tailored black dresses, coats, black balloon pants, white robe coats, and crisp white shirts taking center stage. The show opened with a sensual little white dress that looked as if it could belong in a modern film noir.

Photo: Courtesy of Calvin Klein

On the other end of the spectrum, Christian Siriano took the film noir aesthetic to maximalist lengths. His black-and-white looks included everything from mixed-media striped and polka-dot suits with fascinators to corsets and gray-and-black balloon skirt gowns. Siriano reminded us that just because we go minimalist in color and style doesn’t mean fashion has to become boring or mundane.

Photo: Courtesy of Christian Siriano

If the luxury downturn doesn’t end soon, we may see even more black and white on the runways. It’s the job of the designer to find new ways to elevate it—but by the looks of this season, brands are embracing minimalist palettes for their niche. It’s fashion noir.

DISTRESSED DENIM MAKES ITS HIGH FASHION COMEBACK
STATEMENT JEWELRY TOOK OVER NEW YORK FASHION WEEK

Join the community.

© 2025 Canvas Media Group, LLC