MODERN LOVE AFFAIR WITH CORSETS AND BONING

Photo: Courtesy of Dior

In an early scene in episode one of Netflix’s hit Bridgerton spinoff Queen Charlotte, the young version of the show’s title character is seen in a carriage on her way to become betrothed to England’s king. When her brother asks her why she looks so stiff, she responds that she must sit strategically so as not to impale herself on her corset, as it is made of whalebone. While whalebone corsets aren’t accurate to the time period of the show, it was a reminder of the way women had to suffer through boning in corsets eons ago.

The modern corset and boning are no longer made in a way that poses any risk of a woman impaling herself. While women no longer wear corsets as part of their everyday attire, they still serve a purpose, creating a flattering silhouette when wearing a gown. Corsets are designed to cinch the waist and lift the bust, shaping a specific fashion profile.

At Paris Fashion Week this season, designers had a much less restrictive idea about when and where a corset is appropriate and when to reveal the hidden craftsmanship of boning in garments. For Jonathan Anderson’s Dior debut, one of his most intricate creations was a sheer lace embroidered gown where the boning used to construct the architectural shape of the gown was visible. The deconstructed crinoline effect of the boning was a true testament to his design skill.

Photo: Courtesy of Acne Studios

Over at Acne Studios, the brand’s designer Jonny Johansson took Victorian inspiration and found a way to make it modernly sensual. One of Acne Studios’ standout looks was a corset dress with asymmetrical peplum detail, exposed boning at the waist, and a sheer skirt. Acne Studios is known for pushing the envelope with its designs, and this was a bold reinterpretation of a traditionally feminine garment.

Photo: Courtesy of Magda Butrym

Magda Butrym, known for her traditionally feminine designs, took a more provocative approach this season. A black ruffled corset top featured exposed boning at the bottom and was paired with sheer tights. In a way, it was lingerie reimagined, a modern fusion of Victorian-era influence and contemporary sensuality.

While it’s been over a century since corsets were a staple of women’s wardrobes, and the Victorian era is long behind us, its influence on fashion still lingers. The mystery of the boning of a corset has now been dispelled, and what was once hidden beneath is now proudly on display.

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