THE HISTORY AND RESURGENCE OF THE MILITARY JACKET
- BY KRISTOPHER FRASER
- 23 OCTOBER 2025
- 7 Min
Photo: Courtesy of Dior
Dressing for war is one of the oldest forms of clothing in the world. Since the B.C. era, humans have gone to war over land, religion, and love. When watching historical movies about war—whether it be the Spartan War or charges led by Napoleon Bonaparte—one of the things the costume department puts great effort into is the military outfits.
While suits of metal armor were the norm when Joan of Arc led the French army, the standard war uniform eventually moved beyond metal armor and included lighter military jackets. By the 15th century, the hussar jacket originated in Hungary among the light cavalry and became famous for its ornate, braided design, which was later adopted by European armies.
The hussar jacket was originally intended purely for the battlefield, but over time it became incorporated into daily fashion. By the 18th and 19th centuries, aristocrats began wearing hussar jackets regardless of military service.
While the hussar jacket is no longer the standard for most military uniforms, the jacket’s decorative braiding and military history have continued influencing fashion even today. One of Balmain’s signature pieces is its hussar-inspired jacket, which led to the nicknaming of its loyal customer base as the “Balmain Army.”
While the military-inspired jacket has been a Balmain signature under the creative direction of Olivier Rousteing since 2011, military style is now having a trickle-down effect. At Paris Fashion Week, the military jacket was back in full force, and it looks like everyone will be battalion-ready come Spring 2026.
Photo: Courtesy of Vaquera
While it may seem at first that the military jacket trend came out of nowhere, fashion is always a reflection of the times. Between the current economic and political state of America, foreign policy crises, and the rolling back of human rights, it’s time to suit up for battle.
The first hint of the return of the military jacket appeared with Jonathan Anderson’s debut menswear collection for Dior. One of the jackets that quickly became one of the most talked-about pieces from his menswear line was a light blue, military-style coat with Napoleonic vibes. Greta Lee, in a gender-bending move, wore the men’s coat in an oversized style for the cover of Vogue, marking the first time Anderson’s Dior menswear appeared on a magazine cover.
While it was a big season for Jonathan Anderson with his Dior debut, Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee of Vaquera also had much to celebrate. The design duo recently relocated to Paris, and this season they unveiled collaborations with Moussy Vintage and Nike. Many of their outerwear pieces and jackets referenced Parisian culture (albeit turned upside down), straitjackets gone high-fashion, and military inspiration.
Photo: Courtesy of Enfants Riches Déprimés
Vaquera reimagined the hussar jacket in washed denim with statement shoulder pads that also gave their military jacket an ’80s element. It was one of the most streetwear approaches to the military jacket ever seen, as most designers often take a blazer or transitional-weather-jacket approach to its construction. Instead, Vaquera asked: what if we reimagined the everyday denim jacket for battle?
In contrast, Enfants Riches Déprimés took the military jacket as a spring transition piece and approached similarly designed military jackets. One of the pieces from their Spring 2026 collection was a navy jacket that had a strong masculine feel, which was fit for workwear or could transform into a casual layering piece for everyday wear. The brand made the interesting choice to accessorize the jacket with a ribbon on the collar for their runway show, almost giving the effect of military-awarded décor or a pin.
Fashion is always a reflection of the times, and the times we are living in are unprecedented politically—meaning it’s likely the military jacket is here to stay for many seasons to come. It has become armor for the everyday wars we are fighting, whether it’s how to survive the spiraling cost of living or the latest news headline.
Beyond just the Spring 2026 Fashion Month runways, military jackets were already trending among more mass-market brands like Levi’s. A quick Google search shows that one of the brand’s offerings available on its website is a men’s Menlo military jacket in army green. There are also brands whose ethos is based on military jackets and military-inspired outerwear. Never forget, the Burberry trench coat was originally a military jacket for soldiers who were literally in the trenches.
The reason military inspiration never wanes is that it was born out of utilitarian need, and those things tend to have staying power. Just look at denim, which was originally a workwear material and is now a billion-dollar industry. Most brands, from fast fashion to luxury, use denim.
As for the revival of the military jacket, it is fashion’s call to action. It is needed for the modern wardrobe even if we aren’t on the battlefield, because there are ways we are metaphorically at war—whether it be protesting for civil rights or a tough day at the office.